Peru

Here's a little bit about my first trip to Peru a few weeks back. All the photos were taken with my film Pentax K1000SE. Forgive the layout and writing style- this is roughly adapted from a trip report I wrote. This was my first trip to South America and it was great- beautiful, interesting, etc. I wish I had time to describe the general layout of the geography, economy, what we're working on doing conservation-wise, etc- but as you can see by the paucity of posts over the past year- I rarely get around to putting my thoughts down to the keypad. Hope this excerpt at least gives a bit of a feel for the place.

Travel route: flight from Lima to Cusco; drive from Cusco to Villa Carmen via Urubamba; day trip through Block 76 to NuevoEden. Manu NP marks the southern entrance to Manu National Park near Tres Cruces.

Lima was beautiful. Three days of meetings. No photos.

Scenes from Cusco: a native woman resting at the cathedral, terraced street, ruins of Sacsayhuamán

Cusco was beautiful. Two days of meetings, couple of photos. Hilly streets, cobblestones, Spanish colonial architecture built atop foundations of ancient Inca constructions. Guinea pig, llama, and trout were staple proteins on the local menus. Potatoes-rellenos, (a meat and cheese stuffed potato dish), were a lovely local favorite as well.

From Cusco we travelled to the Urubamba valley via Chinchero. The drive was exquisitely beautiful across highland pasture and agricultural areas, though this of course raised questions about how heavily grazed and cultivated these highlands should be if watershed health is to be maintained. In Urubamba we spent one day surveying the valley, local buildings, and building projects with an architect who is of interest to us in renovating and expanding a research station in the Amazon.

Elevation profile from Cusco to Urubamba via Chinchero

Upland pasture, wheat, and varied cultivation in the highlands between Cusco and Urubamba. Many slopes are cultivated or grazed all the way to the summit, regardless of steepness. This is part of the headwaters region of the Amazon basin, and land management practices here are important to ecosystem health downstream.

Moving on from Urubamba, we crossed the last expanse of high-elevation agriculture and pasturage before reaching the edge of the Andes. This was a dry and dusty trip with more reminders that these are working landscapes and not just the hallowed upper reaches of the Amazon watershed: cultivation on the steepest of slopes, grazing of any lands left uncultivated. Even in Manu National Park there were a number of cattle grazing illegally. Buses and vans full of tourists indicated the presence of an alternative economy here, but it is questionable how much of that revenue reaches the homes of the peasants tilling these lands by hand. With strategic management of tourism revenue, implementation of payments for ecosystem services, and use of hydro-carbon development offset funds- perhaps the parks could get the resources they need to effectivley protect and manage their lands, if not expand protection to some of the more critical slopes in the upper watershed.

Elevation profile from Urubamba to entrance of Manu National Park. This is high, arid country, but surprisingly heavily populated, grazed, and cultivated.

Highland economies and land management between Urubamba and Manu National Park: grazed upland meadow inside the park boundaries; cultivated plots near 4,000 meter pass; woman herding sheep at about 4,000 meters; woman preparing pork at a small town market

At the entrance to Manu National Park, questions of land management were temporarily eclipsed by the wonder of seeing a pie crust of cloud rolled up along the ridgeline from one end of the horizon to the other. Out of the dust-covered truck, we stepped into cool, moist breezes shooting up from the basin below. This was it- the drop off point on the critical grandient from Andes to Amazon that holds the promise of refuge for tremendous biodiversity in the face of climate change. The road ahead of us descends nearly 10,000 feet in only 50 miles, plunging from arid grassland through cloud forest to dripping jungle. Beyond that, the Amazon Basin stretches unwrinkled for almost 2,000 miles to the Atlantic Ocean. If this ribbon of land – only half a percent of the width of the basin- can be effectively protected, it holds one of the greatest potentials for conservation in the world.

View of cloud cover over the Amazon Basin from Tres Cruces, Manu National Park

A second view of the basin from Tres Cruces

Elevation profile from Manu National Park to Hacienda Villa Carmen. Steep gradients soaked with cloud cover and rainfall and packed with biodiversity- these are the climate change refugia that we are working to protect.

From Manu we made our way downward through everything that the previous landscapes were not: moist, well-watered, forested slopes cut through here and there by waterfalls. We stopped to walk trails and check conditions at a site just below the park entrance. Even here the effects of cattle grazing could be seen- cleared land on slopes opposite the park property, stray cattle rummaging through the forest of the private reserve. The patchwork quilt of protected areas is a great start, but will need firming up- through expansion, improved management, and strengthening the regulatory and enforcement powers of environmental agencies. A little further down we stopped at the Wayqechas research station for lunch. Here the wondrously dynamic nature of the cloud forest was on full display- during a half hour meal the vista went from clear and sunny to completely whited out in cloud. Dropping the last stretch from Wayqechas to Hacienda Villa Carmen, we could feel the temperature rise with every few minutes of travel- yet another palpable demonstration of the effects of topographic and moisture gradients.

Changes in landscape: lush vegetation, tropical birds, and waterfalls made the basin floor an entirely different world than the highlands only 50 miles away.

At Hacienda Villa Carmen, I worked with the site manager on plans for the research center, while Enrique worked with park managers, local officials, and ACCA staff on resolving illegal squatting at the property. Issues addressed with the site manager included building and renovation plans for dorms, labs, library, and service areas; development of ecotourism at the site; and arrangements for biochar and bamboo work.

Block 76, (outlined in green), and the area identified by Hunt Oil for seismic testing (in orange)

From Villa Carmen we travelled through Block 76, the Hunt Oil concession that could hold up to 11 trillion cubic feet of natural gas (compare to between 8.8 and 18 TCF at Camisea). This area is home to the Amarakaeri Communal Reserve (see next map), whose inhabitants have been reported as protesting against Hunt Oil’s exploration of the block. We were looking at the current state of forest degradation, population levels, as well as for the protesting Amarakaeri and signs of the oil company, who has recently advertised with Repsol for partners to develop the fields. If the fields really do produce the kind of natural gas that they are expected to, this could mean big changes for the region, and our interest is to steer development in a low-impact, high conservation yield direction.

Block 76 (maroon), seismic testing area (yellow with crosshatched exploration lines) and the Amarakaeri Communal Reserve (central, dark green area). Peach and Lavender blocks represent 14 other native communities wholly encompassed or partially intersected by the block.

Bouncing along the dirt road toward Nuevo Eden, there was clearly no sizeable squatter presence, nor major development of any kind. Many logging tracks spread from the main road and dozens of trucks loaded with timber plied the dusty carretera, but wood extraction seemed to go only a short distance into the forest. We did not see a Big Oil presence and observed only a small indigenous presence. The lack of visibility of the oil company was not entirely surprising as it is only seismic testing that has been carried out so far. More surprising was the lack of visible Amarakaeri presence in the communal reserve. Instead, we encountered villages and small clearings where settlers (many of them highlanders who have been in the area for some time) were scraping out a living through illegal logging and cultivation of bananas. We rolled onward to the very end of the carretera Manu to the small settlement of Nuevo Eden, from which travel only continues by boat down the Rio Alto Madre de Dios. Here trucks filled with rough cut boards and un-ripe bananas awaited small motorboats to carry their cargo downstream to Puerto Maldonado. No oilmen, few tribesmen. Only a meager living to be made.

Illegal lumber and bananas grown on cleared forestland await shipment downriver at Nuevo Eden, the settlement at the end of the road running from Hacienda Villa Carmen through the Amarakaeri Native Community and the Hunt Oil concession (block 76).

The opportunistic clearing and cultivating of land is not yet severe, but what will happen when large-scale gas exploitation begins? The only areas out of the question for hydrocarbon development are the national parks, two of which bound Block 76: Manu and Bahuaja-Sonene. The undeveloped expanse of the oil concession acts as a natural extension of the parks, what will be the impacts of a boom here? Perhaps the best bet for pressuring development in the block is through the Amarakaeri Communal Reserve that overlaps a majority of the exploration area.

Making the most of our time, we split up for the day-long trip back to Cusco. I headed out early with an entomologist from the University of Kansas and a couple of Wake Forest PhD students who were working on transect studies across the altitudinal gradient of cloud forest from Tres Cruces downwards. We spent the whole day talking about research, climate change, and the prospects for both human and natural systems to adapt.

Back in Cusco late Wednesday evening, we had one last meeting with a local anthropologist. After a quick farewell to the office staff in the morning, we flew back to Lima for a day and a half more work with grantees and potential partners. Highlights in Lima included working on organizational and strategic planning with an indigenous land titling organization, and meeting with a Brazilian construction firm to discuss a joint project to offset the impacts of infrastructure development.

All in all, it was a good trip- yet still only a survey of the issues and actors involved in the work. Future trips this year will serve to deepen the work started on this trip, as well as to introduce additional geographies where our company is working in Peru.

Assorted pics:

Meadow pasture above Cusco; Cave paintings; Native woman going to market at Paucartambo; a nice stone wall in the highlands.

 

Waiting for dinner

Same night. We had just come down from a hike at the Piro research station. While others chatted, the introverts among us took our time to converse with nature. Carlos stared into the sunset, the soft sea breeze rustling through his hair, his brown face golden in the last light of day. His girlfriend was expecting their first child, and I didn't interrupt his thoughts. I walked down the shore, past Billy standing there barefoot in his khakis letting the surf come in around and over him. Down a ways past the tussock of grass where the hippies strummed, through a grove of coconut palms I found a small lagoon cut off by high dunes from the pacific. I stood a moment, wondering about snakes, peeled off my clothes and jumped in.

Sunset

Same time and place.

Music at sunset

On the pacific coast of the Osa, Costa Rica. February 2011, iPhone. Where else would you expect to run into three hippies from Floyd strumming their guitars and singing?

A doorway in Kashgar, 2009

Rebel XT, 18-55mm stock lens.

Stone detail, Bangkok

iPhone pic. March 2011.

Two views of the lake, Hangzhou

Two farmers, Hangzhou

Sweeping or playing?

Chatting in the evening

Evening prayers, Yangon

So until I save up for a new camera, I'm taking pics with my iPhone. Here's one from Schwedagong Temple, Myanmar.

New Year's

"Fa-TAL!" Exclaimed the conservation manager with much animation as we cruised slowly down the highway in the falling night.  He was commenting on the pot of coffee I had brewed in the office that morning and my keen intuition hinted that my methods may not have agreed with him.  In broken Spanish I elicited the bone of contention: he uses fully one fourth the amount of beans per cup compared to my morning eye-opener.  Either way, contrary to his gentle indications otherwise, it's good stuff.


Oil palm plantations and dry-land rice fields slide by in the humid night.  A little farther on we pass an organic chocolate farm.  It's the start of summer and what can be called the comparatively dry season, though it's rained nearly every other day since my arrival three weeks ago.  I'm finally getting used to seeing trees again, and Spanish is gradually overtaking my inclination to respond to everything in Chinese.  I feel cold when the temperature drops below 70.


2010 was a stormy and tumultuous year, like nothing we could have imagined, and nothing that I care to recall here.  In something somewhat like a movie scene, the raging winds and crashing waves of a midnight storm have dissolved, and I find myself that castaway pulling his senses together on some sunny tropical shore edged with coconut palms and little blue waves licking at its sands.  It really does seem a disconcerting dream, but here I am in Costa Rica in my 5th week of work with a new company doing conservation and development in the region.  Soon, we'll be settling down into an apartment in Virginia- our 11th place in our 5th city in five and a half years- and maybe things will sink in more fully then, maybe there will be a "normal" again.  But for now I'm happy to have passed into a new year and the new promises it holds, whether my senses have fully arrived or not.

Over the last bone-jarring, tattered steel bridge, we roll into town on a dusty lane paralleling the only paved street in Puerto Jimenez.  Pulling up outside a low building surrounded by a high metal fence, I wish the conservation manager a happy new year and step out, my mind adrift in some far off place as it attempts to navigate the path from the rubble of Tibet to the jungle of Costa Rica.  It could be a long time before it finds its way fully to here and now.

As the gate shuts with a clang, I hear howler monkeys in the distance.

Repkong

The real ice road truckers

Here's a pic from early April. We were servicing camera traps and were lucky enough to still be able to make use of the frozen rivers as highways. Going is much tougher after the spring thaw, and the trip would have to be done on foot or horseback next time.

Monday Afternoon

For a while, there was only sideways streaking white outside the windows and the muffled sound of traffic coming from KunLun Fast Road. But now it's 5 o'clock and the snow is letting up enough to see the faint outlines of pagodas and power lines on South Mountain, just above the flat rooftop horizon of neighboring apartment buildings. Baby has woken from her afternoon nap and is playing in one of the cupboards and soon we'll be needing to get dinner on, but for now we're content listening to Alison Krauss and letting the world beyond the radiators reappear on its own terms. 


It's been a long time since April. After the earthquake there were no more days, no more weeks, just endless work that dissolved gradually from earthquake relief into project catch-up. Sometime in July we found out that our landlord's home had been destroyed in the earthquake, so we had to move to a new apartment, and thus now have this view of south mountain - obscured only by snow and not by mega-construction projects.


There's not a lot to tell about the intervening months. Life happens and doesn't stop happening until it really stops, and at that point we won't be around blogging about it anymore. There were trips to the field, driving through rubble, seeing neighborhoods replaced by barren earth with little teepees of salvaged timbers here and there. There were bear fences to put up, community meetings to organize, frustrations to hear with sympathy, aspirations to hear with validation. There were moments of triumph setting camera traps high above the world on rocky crags 16,000 feet closer to heaven than to the sea. There were moments of despair wondering how anyone could go on trying to meet so many needs. There was lots of life crammed into a tiny amount of time.


In September we took a break to visit friends in Korea. In October we returned to fall weather and the familiar sounds and smells of China. Rehab work has been approved to begin in Yushu. Eco-tourism meetings and workshops are scheduled for early November. A doctor training is also to be completed before year's end. Life keeps on going. 

Cashmere

Don't worry- the goats don't die. They just get combed and sheared and then jump around enjoying their new summer coats. The little ones are the best, rascalling around the edges of the tent, sometimes getting scooped up into the arms of one of the women or children of the tent to be cuddled and fed a treat.

234

Happy Birthday America! Same as last year- nothing makes a person love America more than stepping away for a while and seeing the beauty from a distance. Despite some flaws and the griping of persistent naysayers, the freedom, justice, and opportunity of America shine as a bright contrast to much of the world.

Waiting in the dark

Both of these photos were shot as single-exposures. Between projects in 2007, I had a little time on my hands when I couldn't sleep, so I had fun playing with some ideas.

Evening

Weather

Second one looks a lot better on black background.

 Clear skies.

 Stormy skies.

Red Lanterns

Sim's Cozy. Chengdu 2010

Interesting New York Times article about the region

Read it here. Regarding last four paragraphs of the article, there are some reforms in the works for evidence obtained in this manner, read more from the Wall Street Journal here.

In other news, our Snow Leopard photos made it into the national news! However, the article claimed they were the work of an amateur photographer from Qinghai, one Ma Shangtang!! Hahaha, quite amusing.

Chengdu Stonework 2

Swiss Stonework

In honor of their surprising win over Spain.
Church in Bettmeralp summer 2005
Water fountain, probably near Meirengen, 2005

Chengdu stonework

Outside Chengdu

Working late on another funding proposal.

On our trip to Chengdu a few weeks back, we visited a beautiful tea plantation a couple of hours outside of town. The van we were traveling in was stuck in a particularly muddy section of the farm road, providing a chance to linger and a welcome respite from the long hours in the vehicle punctuated by 5 minute photo-ops in a rapid succession of visits to various local scenic spots. I enjoyed taking the time to explore the tea fields and out-buildings of the farm, and to meet these two lovely oranges.

Dasheng 2007

This is another panorama from Zhiduo County, taken in September 2007. This area is just south of Zhiduo town and is nearby one of the spots where we visited a clinic and did water testing in April. Today, another team will return from having set up some bear-fencing at that clinic and several other homes in this area.

Still going

Another truck of relief supplies going down tomorrow. Now trying to catch up on regular projects that got pushed back during relief work.

The photo is of one of the valleys where a snow leopard camera trap is located (in the small cave at the base of the dome-rock to the far right). This was from the week before the earthquake.

5 weeks later

The water systems were received and sent down to Yushu a couple of weeks ago. After that we worked on getting permissions to continue relief work in other forms, assessed applicability/availability of additional water purification systems for the medium-to-long term, and started applying for grants. During this time, the authorities were assessing the quake site and determining where to rebuild Yushu. It seems that they will rebuild on the site of the old town, and that the reconstruction of housing will take up to three years. Yushu stretches from west to east along a river valley, with another tributary joining from the south, creating a three-cornered town that follows the waterways. During the three year reconstruction period, residents of Yushu will be living in tent encampments at the three corners of town. In order to help make the stay more livable, we were asked to help provide some supplies such as beds for the elderly, warm thermal underwear, wool socks, pressure cookers, cooking utensils, solar powered lighting, and some durable tents for those who hadn't received any yet. We sent down a truck load yesterday with enough supplies for 50 families (the tents alone are very large, being big enough for a family to make home in and being constructed of re-enforced nylon and insulating material). The guys who took the truck down will find out what additional supplies are needed and we're hoping to send down several more trucks in the coming days. For now, my family has retreated to Sichuan for a few days off, and even if we do nothing but sleep- it will be a worthwhile trip!

Belated Update

It's been mercifully slow over the past couple of days (I guess that means "normal" working days). All of the Yushu Health Bureau medical camps (including our own) were closed on Sunday as care was transferred over to the national-level provider. We were able to see over 1100 patients during our immediate response in Yushu, and are now planning our mid-to-long term recovery assistance. Thanks to everyone who donated and sent encouraging words- it was an incredible team effort and we needed you guys back home, too. This week has mostly been filled with debriefing and counseling for those returning from Yushu, assessment of the first phase response, and planning for the future. One item of note is that we're soon sending down 30 high-capacity water purification systems (each one serves ~2500 people) to be set up in the displaced persons camps and remaining neighborhoods of Yushu.

Some pics from Yushu!

Please see today's update at: http://yushuearthquakerelief.com/?cat=9

Correction

Although there are many big name organizations waiting in Xining without permission to operate, the 70 teams that our contact was referring to were domestic medical teams that are prepared to cycle through Yushu during the coming weeks.
---
One week ago, we began operating under a verbal invitation from the prefecture government immediately following the quake and continued to move in medical teams under verbal agreements. I'm happy to report today that we're now on the government's list of official medical camps. That's big. It doesn't guarantee anything, but it's huge compared to going on a verbal invitation.

Tuesday Update

This will be on the Yushu Quake site a little later....

Our supply truck arrived mid-morning today with fresh food and
medicines. The tents were soon set up, the generators were humming,
and water was being filtered and treated for drinking. Medical
personnel continued to see patients throughout the day despite a short
storm of hail, snow, and rain. Beyond the routine trips, one medical
transport driver reported being able to take two little girls to the
airport for evacuation to the city where their parents are
hospitalized.

Some doctors from team 2 needed to depart for Xining this morning to
catch return flights home. They traveled over icy roads through
driving snow for much of the 500 mile journey, but arrived safely in
Xining before 9 PM local time. Additional medical personnel are now in
Xining and are expected to travel to Yushu over the next few days.

This will not be on the site... our local partners told us that there were 70 international organizations waiting in Xining trying to get into the quake site but not allowed. Big names. Some called to ask how we were working there, but we were busy trying to get things done. It's interesting that some people are raising huge amounts of money for earthquake relief and they're nowhere near the place and have no permission to move.... oh well. We're going to continue the way we started- working in partnership with communities at the pace that they want to move, working on the things they think are important, and doing everything above board in full cooperation with the local government. Other big names can come and go and sweep up lots of money with them, but we're still going to be going at the pace of the community that we love and be with them for the long haul- and the money that's needed will come when it's ready.

Good night guys.

Good morning!

Team 5 on the road. Doctors coming over in 1/2 hour to meet and plan Team 6 departure- hopefully tomorrow.

good night

Just finished a number of administrative tasks. Team 4 with the supply truck had a brief hold up at a checkpoint, but thankfully were moved through after some phone calls from Yushu. They should be down by noon Tuesday. I'm going to bed now- need to be at the office in 5.5 hours for pre-briefing Team 5 (small medical group to help transition as Team 2 departs). See ya'll in the mawnin!

Truck's on the road

Now organizing med team for tomorrow morning. Prebriefing's at 6:30 AM, that's about 9.5 hours from now... Luckily I'm in the office with a FANTASTIC group of guys getting stuff done, so it's not too bad. Shinay and baby are here helping, too.

Water purifiers here

On the truck now. Hoping to add meds soon.

Monday Morning

Team 3 is now joined up to the main group at our medical camp. We're working on getting the supplies purchased to ship down this afternoon.

Team 3 is there

Team 3 made it to Yushu at about 1030 PM. They're camping at a property about a mile or so from our medical base camp, hoping to rendezvous early Monday morning.

...Maybe not

So the hope of sleep was a little premature. After getting the team off at 7 this morning (started from 430AM), I worked on coordinating with some of the Sichuan earthquake (last year) folks to get two 10,000 gallon per day (GPD) water purifiers. They'll be arriving at the airport in the morning with two guys to accompany, setup, and maintain the equipment. We'll meet them with a truck, load the purifiers, add three 25 square meter winter tents, 20 18-liter jugs of water for immediate use, a week's worth of medical supplies, and a week's worth of foodstuffs. Contacted a friend in town to receive more leftover supplies from the Sichuan relief effort, so should have loads of water purification systems, tents, supplies, etc. I took a short nap from 7 to 8 PM, and am now at a friend's kitchen table with my Environmental Health Engineering textbook (thanks Dr Nance) trying to look into options for latrines and water distribution, but really catching up on loads of emails and phone calls. Hoping to get to bed by midnight if possible, as we still need to do the shopping for the above mentioned supplies tomorrow morning.

Team 3 is off!

Another medical team is now on the road. I'm going to sleep.

Friday

Got another convoy of doctors and logistics folks off today (13 folks). They are evacuating many injured to our city. Getting things set for another team of medical folks to head out Sunday.

For our Japanese readers...

A friend has set up these two sites for Japanese readers following the earthquake relief:

http://twitter.com/YushuQuakeInfoj

http://yushuquakeinfoj.blog2.fc2.com/

April is the cruelest month

Even as we're over here working on the Yushu earthquake relief, our hearts and thoughts are also with our fellow Hokies in Blacksburg and around the world as we remember the tragic loss of 32 students, friends, and colleagues three years ago. We love you guys and we're thinking of you. Ut Prosim.

Another long day

Got a few hours of sleep last night. Expat friends from the quake area came in today. Visibly shaken. We talked for a long time, looked through photos and videos. It was really a miracle that this particular family made it out. Stories broke our hearts, as did photos of the devastation. Found out that two more of our close local friends are ok, too.

Currently organizing teams for purchasing of medical supplies and dispatching of two-to-five more medical teams in the next 48 hours. Efforts may seem small and slow in the face of such a disaster, but we are guests in this country and are working within the bounds of what is officially requested of us. There are government structures in place for organizing and providing aid, and they have in fact responded extremely quickly. We are part of their team, and are both eager and prepared to provide all that is asked of us.

http://www.cbc.ca/asithappens/latestshow.html (part 1 includes interview with my boss).
http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1982170,00.html

Yushu Earthquake

On March 14th 2010 several earthquakes struck the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai province, the largest of which was magnitude 6.9. Initial eyewitness reports from the prefecture government seat Jiegu (Jyekundo) speak of extensive damage to houses and many wounded and dead. Official figures at time of writing are 300 dead and 8000 wounded. As more information becomes available I'll be posting it at YushuEarthQuakeRelief.com.

Initial requests from the prefectural government to our organization (Plateau Perspectives) include medical supplies, tents, and blankets. We will be sending an advance medical team down in a few hours to assess the situation and set up to receive additional supplies and medical personnel.

Yushu Prefecture is where all of our work for the past 10+ years has taken place, and Jaegu (Yushu Town) is home to many of our local friends. We're very sad to have lost at least one friend and are waiting to hear news about several others. All of our fellow expats who were in the area at the time of the quake have made it out safely.


Links
Enter the following Chinese links with latest news and pictures into translate.google.com to read the pages in English.

Central People’s Government of the People’s Republic of China Website
http://www.gov.cn/jrzg/2010-04/14/content_1580853.htm

Qinghai Province People’s Government Website
http://www.qh.gov.cn/html/31/133180.html

Qinghai Earthquake Portal
http://www.eqqh.gov.cn/zwgk/zwxx/201004/2298.shtml

USGS Latest Earthquakes in the World - Past 7 days
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsww/Quakes/quakes_all.html

Magnitude 6.9 - SOUTHERN QINGHAI, CHINA 2010 - April 13 23:49:37 UTC
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsww/Quakes/us2010vacp.php

Earthquake

Earthquake hit this morning. We are fine, but many are not.

http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsww/Quakes/us2010vbaf.php#details

Heading up

One of my favorite pics from Summer 04. Tomorrow at 5 AM I'll be
heading that way again. It'll take a few days to get there, and the
ground will be frozen solid several feet deep, but it should be a good
trip. Going out to do some water (ice?) testing and talk to folks
about installing bear-proofing on their homes.

Get 'em while they're hot

The following is an article about the Tibetan Mastiff craze in China. These dogs are like small grizzly bears, shaggy and massive. They're nice enough when napping in the sun, but are fearsome, vicious protectors of the tents and livestock. Long vital to life on the plateau, they are a symbol of Tibet. Not sure how they'll enjoy their lives in Beijing and Shanghai, but I hope that some of that money will trickle back down to the nomads.
http://www.seattlepi.com/national/1104ap_as_china_tibetan_mastiff.html

Attached is a photo from October 2007. This pack of mutts (not nearly as big or good looking as the full-blood mastiffs) and I would fight for bathroom rights at the outhouse- me to relieve myself, they to feed. Here they're eying a fresh sheep carcass being dressed. They usually won the outhouse battle, but I got to eat the innards of the sheep!

Dumplings, sand storms, and project ramp-up

It's been two weeks of meetings, project planning, avoiding dust storms in the afternoons, and eating noodles and dumplings. I noticed that the cranes turn their massive booms out of the wind in the late afternoon when things really start flying, and some days I lose sight of the buildings two blocks away. The best part of the week has been taking my little girl out to breakfast. She watches the world with silent and intent interest, including her father slurping down black rice porridge and steamed buns. One day we also visited the flower market, where she fell asleep in my arms just as I was buying a bundle of fresh flowers for her mother.

The (un-related) photo is from a trip to Yushu in summer 2004, taken with my old Pentax K1000 (film). I had a picture of one of the dust storms, but just hold up an onion skin in front of the last photo posted and you'll get the idea of what it looked like. Actually, a quarter teaspoon of sand in the mouth would really give you a feel for the storms....

The New View South

We're back home and settled in. I'm working on a grant proposal for some mapping software, Shinay is running the house, and we're reconnecting daily with old friends. The spring is progressing normally- dusty winds in the afternoons, temperatures between -5 and +50, Tibet is closed for March as usual, and construction is resuming its light-speed pace after the Lunar New Year lull.

In an email sent to a friend shortly after returning, I wrote "When we moved into our apartment, it was on the edge of town surrounded on three sides by small vegetable plots. When we left there were thirty odd cranes, all but one painted yellow, pulling the bones of new buildings up from the earth. Now we're surrounded by more than 25 grey concrete shells of buildings rising 30 plus stories into the grey sky. It's actually quite a pleasant view, and this morning it was the more lovely as a handful of snowflakes meandered without hurry between heaven and earth."